Legally, there's no time limit to fix MOT advisories as they are warnings, not failures. However, it's wise to get them fixed promptly as they can become dangerous, illegal, or cause an MOT fail the following year.
That's a cracking question, and one I hear in the workshop almost every day. When I hand a customer their MOT pass certificate (the VT20 form) and it has a few 'advisories' listed, I often see a flicker of worry. They're relieved the car has passed, but they immediately wonder, "What does this mean? Am I on the clock? Do I have 30 days to sort this?" Let's clear the air right away: legally, there is no deadline or time limit to fix an MOT advisory. An advisory is not a defect; it's a formal heads-up from the MOT tester (me!) that a component is showing signs of wear or is getting close to the legal limit. Your MOT certificate is valid for the full year, and you haven't broken any rules by driving away with advisories listed. It's a pass certificate, after all. However, and this is the crucial part, that doesn't mean you should ignore them. An advisory is a prediction. It's my professional judgement, based on the DVSA's strict criteria, that something will likely need attention before your next MOT. Ignoring it could not only lead to a failure next year but, more importantly, could compromise your car's safety. Your responsibility to keep your vehicle in a roadworthy condition is a continuous one, day in, day out, and advisories are a big clue about where to focus your attention.
The official UK MOT rule
As an MOT tester, my bible is the DVSA's 'MOT Inspection Manual'. It's what we use to decide if a component passes, fails, or warrants an advisory. The manual makes it very clear what an advisory is for. It states that testers can add advisories for items that are close to, but have not yet reached, the failure criteria. The purpose is to inform you, the vehicle's owner, of these items so you can monitor them and arrange for repairs. Let's be specific. Under Section R of the Manual, 'Recording test results', it outlines three main outcomes: 1. **Pass:** The vehicle meets the minimum legal standards. 2. **Pass with advisories:** The vehicle meets the minimum legal standards on the day of the test, but the tester has noted items that are wearing or deteriorating. These are recorded on the pass certificate (VT20). 3. **Fail:** The vehicle has one or more 'Major' or 'Dangerous' defects and does not meet the minimum legal standards. This generates a refusal certificate (VT30). An advisory does not invalidate your MOT. Your certificate is valid until its expiry date. The key legal point to remember, however, is separate from the MOT test itself. The Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986 requires you to keep your vehicle roadworthy at all times. An MOT certificate doesn't grant you immunity for the year. If you have an advisory for a tyre with 2mm of tread, and a month later it's worn down to 1.5mm (below the legal limit of 1.6mm), your car is now unroadworthy and illegal to use, even though your MOT certificate is still valid. Police can and do prosecute drivers for vehicle defects, and pointing to an old advisory won't be a valid defence; in fact, it could demonstrate that you were aware of the developing issue.
How testers actually assess this
When I'm under a car on the ramp, the process isn't about looking for reasons to fail it; it's about systematically checking each component against the standards in the manual. Many of these checks result in a clear pass or fail, but some live in a 'grey area'. This is where experience and professional judgement come in, and where advisories are born. Take corrosion, for example. The rules are very specific about corrosion within 30cm of a 'prescribed area' like a seatbelt mount, suspension fixing, or steering rack mount. If I can press my thumb on the metal and it flexes, or if I tap it with my little corrosion assessment tool (a small, pointy hammer) and it goes through, that's a 'Major' defect – a fail. However, if I see significant surface rust on a structural component that hasn't yet caused any weakening, I can't fail it. It doesn't meet the failure criteria. But I know that another year of British weather could turn that into a hole. So, I will add an advisory: "Nearside front sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened." This gives you a vital warning. It's the same for many other parts. A shock absorber with a 'light misting of oil' isn't a fail, but it's an early sign the seal is starting to wear. I'd advise it. If it were dripping fluid and leaving puddles, that's a 'Major' fail. A steering rack gaiter (a rubber boot) with a small split that isn't letting dirt in might get an advisory. A completely torn gaiter that has allowed the joint to get packed with grit is a fail, as the joint's function is compromised. My job is to give you an accurate snapshot of your car's condition on that day. The advisory system is a fantastic tool for this. It allows me to communicate potential future problems without failing your vehicle unnecessarily. A good tester uses advisories to help you plan and budget for future maintenance, keeping your car safer and more reliable in the long run.
Common scenarios — pass, advisory or fail?
To make this really clear, let's walk through some of the most common items I see every week and break down when they pass, get an advisory, or fail outright. **Tyres** * **Pass:** Good tread depth across the central three-quarters of the tyre (e.g., 4mm), no cuts, bulges, or perishing on the sidewalls. * **Advisory:** Tread depth is getting close to the legal limit. For example, a tyre at 2.0mm. I'd record it as 'Nearside front tyre worn close to legal limit'. Or, slight age-related cracking (perishing) on the sidewall, but no cords are exposed. * **Fail (Major Defect):** Tread depth is 1.6mm or less. A cut deep enough to expose the cords. A lump or bulge in the sidewall, which indicates structural failure. **Brakes** * **Pass:** Brake pads have plenty of material left, and discs are smooth and well above their minimum thickness. * **Advisory:** Brake pads are visibly worn but still have more than 1.5mm of friction material. Or, the brake discs are becoming 'lipped' or scored on the surface, but aren't yet below the manufacturer's specified minimum thickness. The advisory might read 'Front brake discs worn, pitted or scored but not seriously weakened'. * **Fail (Major Defect):** Brake pads have less than 1.5mm of friction material. The brake disc is significantly and obviously worn below the minimum thickness. There's a hydraulic fluid leak anywhere in the system. The brake performance test on the rollers shows a significant imbalance or low efficiency. **Suspension Components** * **Pass:** All bushes and ball joints are in good condition with no play. Shock absorbers are dry and secure. * **Advisory:** A rubber bush shows signs of slight deterioration or cracking but hasn't resulted in excessive movement. A ball joint dust cover is damaged but hasn't yet allowed the joint to dry out and develop play. A 'light misting' of oil on a shock absorber. * **Fail (Major Defect):** Excessive play in a ball joint or suspension arm bush (I check this physically with a pry bar
What to do if you're worried before your test
A bit of pre-MOT anxiety is normal, but you can turn that worry into action. Spending 15 minutes doing some simple checks yourself can save you the hassle and cost of a fail. In my experience, most failures are for simple things that are easy to spot and fix. Here’s my examiner's pre-test checklist: 1. **Lights:** This is the number one cause of failures. Ask a friend to help you or park facing a garage door or shop window at night. Check all your indicators, sidelights, dipped beams, main beams, brake lights (including the high-level one), and your number plate lights. A blown bulb is often a cheap and easy fix. 2. **Tyres:** Look at the tread. A quick way to check is the 20p test – if the outer band of the coin is hidden when you stick it in the tread, it’s likely legal. Check all over the tyre, not just one spot. Look and feel for any cuts, lumps or bulges in the sidewalls. 3. **Windscreen & Wipers:** Check your windscreen for damage. In the area swept by the wipers, a chip or crack bigger than 40mm is a fail. Right in front of the driver (an area called 'Zone A'), anything over 10mm is a fail. Also, check your wiper blades aren't torn or perished. Finally, top up your screenwash and test it – if it doesn't spray, it's a fail! 4. **Dashboard Warning Lights:** Turn your ignition on. Any lit-up warning light for the engine management (EML), airbags (SRS), anti-lock brakes (ABS), or electronic stability control (ESC) is an automatic MOT fail. Get these diagnosed before the test. 5. **Horn & Seatbelts:** Give the horn a quick beep. Pull on all the seatbelts to check they retract properly and engage securely in the buckle. A frayed or damaged belt is a fail. Doing these checks yourself puts you in control and means there are fewer potential surprises on test day.
What happens if you do fail
Okay, so the worst has happened, and I've had to give you a VT30 'Refusal of an MOT Certificate'. Don't panic, it feels worse than it is, and there's a clear process to follow. The fail certificate will list any 'Major' or 'Dangerous' defects. The key difference is how it affects your ability to drive the car. * **Major Defect:** If your previous MOT is still valid (i.e., you're not testing on the expiry date), you are legally permitted to drive your car away to a place of repair or to a pre-booked MOT appointment. However, you must get the defect fixed. * **Dangerous Defect:** This is serious. Examples include a brake pipe about to burst or a steering arm with so much play it's unsafe. If your car has a 'Dangerous' defect, you **cannot** legally drive it on the road under any circumstances. It must be repaired at the test centre or recovered by a tow truck. Driving it could lead to prosecution and invalidate your insurance. Now for the retest. The rules are designed to be fair. If you leave the car with the test centre for repair, they can perform a partial retest (just checking the failed items) for free, as long as it's done within 10 working days. If you take the car away to repair it yourself or at another garage, you have two options: 1. **Bring it back to the *same* test centre by the end of the next working day:** This will get you a free partial retest. 2. **Bring it back to the *same* test centre within 10 working days:** This will get you a partial retest at a reduced price, which is typically half the standard MOT fee. If you miss that 10-day window, you'll need a full MOT test again at the full price. My advice is always to deal with fails promptly to save yourself time and money.
Will my insurance be invalid if I don't fix MOT advisories? — Not directly. An advisory isn't a declaration of unroadworthiness, so your insurance isn't automatically void. However, all policies require you to keep your car in a roadworthy condition. If you have an accident caused by a part that was listed as an advisory (like a worn tyre) and you hadn't fixed it, your insurer could argue you were negligent. They might then dispute or refuse your claim. It's always the safest bet, both legally and financially, to address advisories promptly.
Can I sell a car with outstanding MOT advisories? — Yes, you absolutely can. There is no law against selling a car with advisories. However, you must be transparent with the buyer. All MOT history, including advisories and failures, is publicly available online for free using the vehicle's registration number. A smart buyer will check this. Not disclosing advisories is bad practice and could lead to legal disputes later. A car's price should always reflect the cost of any work it needs, including sorting out advisories.
Do police check MOT advisories at the roadside? — Police ANPR (Automatic Number Plate Recognition) systems will tell them if your car has a valid MOT, tax, and insurance, but they won't see the specific advisories. However, if they pull you over for an observable fault – like a cracked brake light or a noisy exhaust – and that exact item was on your last MOT as an advisory, it serves as strong evidence that you were aware of a developing fault and did not act. This could lead to points and a fine.
How much should I budget to fix typical MOT advisories? — This can vary enormously depending on the car and the issue. An advisory like 'Tyre worn close to legal limit' could be £70-£150 for a new tyre fitted. An advisory for 'Surface corrosion on brake pipes' might cost nothing if they just need cleaning and protecting, or several hundred pounds if they need replacing. 'Slight play in lower suspension arm ball joint' could be a £150-£300 job. Always ask a trusted garage for a clear quote before committing to any work.