Hydraulic power steering fluid is escaping, or the level is below minimum. A weep with the level still fine is normally Minor; a steady leak, an empty reservoir or steering that isn't being assisted properly is Major. Electric power steering cars fail differently — that shows as a warning light or heavy steering, not a leak.
Wording as it commonly appears on an MOT certificate: “Power steering fluid leaking or reservoir below minimum”.
What does it mean?
Hydraulic power steering fluid is escaping, or the level is below minimum. A weep with the level still fine is normally Minor; a steady leak, an empty reservoir or steering that isn't being assisted properly is Major. Electric power steering cars fail differently — that shows as a warning light or heavy steering, not a leak.
How serious is it?
Usually recorded as: Minor, Major. The tester assesses the actual vehicle on the day, so your certificate is what counts.
What normally causes it?
- A leaking high-pressure hose or its crimped union
- A weeping rack seal, which drips at one end of the rack
- A worn pump shaft seal, often with a whine to match
- A cracked plastic reservoir or perished return hose
What a mechanic would check
I clean everything down, run the engine and turn lock to lock a few times, then look again with a torch. Fluid tracks along the rack and drips off the lowest point, so the drip location rarely tells you the source. A whine that rises with steering effort usually means the pump is running short of fluid.
What might need replacing
- A pressure or return hose
- Rack seals or a reconditioned rack
- A power steering pump
- Fresh fluid and a bleed
Can you still drive it?
Losing assistance makes low-speed manoeuvring very heavy but the car still steers. Running a pump dry destroys it quickly, so top up and get it looked at rather than ignoring the level.
Repair cost
A hose is a modest job. Racks and pumps are considerably more, and it's worth knowing which one is leaking before anyone quotes.
Before the retest
Replacing a track rod end, rack gaiter or ball joint almost always changes the tracking, so ask for the alignment to be set after the repair rather than left to chance. Before the retest, check the steering wheel sits straight when driving in a straight line and that the car does not wander. A new gaiter should be properly clipped at both ends; a loose clip is an easy re-fail.
Retest rules
If the vehicle stays at the test centre for repair and is retested within 10 working days, a partial retest is often free; some items qualify for a free retest if you bring the car back by the end of the next working day. The exact conditions are set out on GOV.UK, so confirm with the test centre before you leave. A major or dangerous failure means the car cannot legally be driven away unless the previous MOT is still valid and nothing dangerous was recorded — check your certificate first.
Related help
More steering failures · MOT failure decoder · Ask a mechanic about your certificate
This is general guidance from a UK mechanic, not a substitute for a physical inspection. Only the tester who inspected your vehicle can confirm what was recorded and why.