If you only do one piece of motorhome maintenance a year, make it the habitation check. It's the camper equivalent of a full health check — and unlike the MOT, it's not legally required, which means owners regularly skip it. They shouldn't.
What it tests
Damp readings at multiple points: window frames, floor edges, around skylights, behind cupboards, under the bed, around the rear panel join. Gas system: tightness test (leak-down), regulator pressure, every appliance fired and checked, gas-drop ventilation confirmed clear. 12V leisure system: battery health, split-charge or B2B charger function, all internal circuits. 230V mains: RCD test, polarity, hook-up cable continuity. Water system: pump, taps, boiler, waste, freshwater tank, no contamination. Bodywork: seal condition around all openings, roof seams, awning rail.
Why it isn't part of the MOT
The MOT is a roadworthiness test — does the vehicle stop, steer, light up and pass emissions. The habitation side of a camper is treated as separate kit (the same way the MOT doesn't test your roof box). Insurers, however, increasingly want to see a current habitation check on claim, particularly for damp-related water damage.
How often
Annually. Always after a UK winter (October–March is when seals contract, freeze and let water in). Always before a long touring season.
Realistic cost
£180–£250 for a competent independent workshop. Dealerships charge £300+. Cheaper than that is usually a tick-box exercise, not a real inspection.
Common questions
Will a habitation check find damp before I see it? Yes — that's exactly its purpose. A damp meter picks up moisture content in wood-backed panels long before visible staining or smell.
Does my insurance require it? Not always required at purchase, but many policies invalidate damp-related claims if there's no recent habitation check. Read your policy wording carefully.